No Plaid About It Scarf

plaid crocheted scarf with fringe

 

When I first started seeing crocheted items in plaid on Pinterest and Instagram – I fell in love!  Ultimately I would love to live off the grid in a rustic cabin where plaid would fit right into the decor.  Buffalo plaid, no matter the primary color you use, simply has a classic and cozy feel. Am I right?

I knew immediately I wanted to create something using this type of pattern. Initially when I started this was a sleeve for a sweater but, later decided it would be a scarf. I will eventually make a sweater with this plaid theme but for a first time out I wanted to make something a little easier to follow. Not to mention that I think it is super cute and already have dozens of outfits to pair it with.

Labor of Love

Working on this scarf turned into a labor of love because it took a little longer than I thought it would. Mainly because I tried to work on it over the holidays AND I started another crochet project.

I don’t know why we do that to ourselves. I saw a quote today that said, “My new year’s resolution is to finish the projects I started in 2018, with yarn I bought in 2017, with a pattern I purchased in 2016.” Man, did that hit home. However, despite the fact this took me an extra week to complete I conceptualized it in mid-December 2018 and completed it on January 1, 2019 so I am feeling pretty accomplished. 

So let’s talk about whether this project is right for you…

+SKILL LEVEL

This pattern is for an advanced beginner/intermediate level crocheter. It isn’t difficult, but if you are looking for a first project I would not recommend this scarf. Instead I would recommend The Lexington Bluegrass Scarf.

The stitches used in this pattern are simple but the complexity lies in the changing of colors and carrying them throughout the project. That is why I am labeling it as advanced beginner /intermediate.

no plaid about it crocheted scarf

+ DIMENSIONS

This plaid crochet scarf measures 56″ long (not including fringe) and 10″ wide. The fringe adds 5″ on each end of the scarf.

+ MATERIALS NEEDED

US H8 / 5.00 mm hook

Color A – 214 yards – Scheepjes Colour Crafter Ede (black)

Color B – 197 yards – Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Rotterdam (grey)

Color C – 115 yards – Scheepjes Colour Crafter in Weert (white)

Scheepjes Colour Crafter is a DK weight yarn. If you are not using this specific yarn any DK (category 3 weight) yarn will work for this project. If you would like to purchase the Colour Crafter yarn for this pattern please click on the link in the colors and you can get it here at my online shop.

+ ABBREVIATIONS

SC = single crochet

DC = double crochet

CH = chain

YO = yarn over

To Begin:

Beginning comment: This pattern is done with a griddle stitch and you need to end each square with a double crochet in order to pull up the next color. Therefore you will need have an even number for the foundation chain +one (which will not count as a stitch, just a turning chain). This scarf is six squares across and each square is 6 stitches wide (using the griddle stitch that is a sc, dc, sc, dc, sc, dc).

Begin with Color A (black) and ch 37 (6 stitches per square X 6 squares = 36 +1 turning chain) (37).

Row 1: In the 2nd chain from the hook make a SC in each stitch of the chain all the way across. (36) Then CH 1 and turn (here and throughout pattern CH 1 does count as a stitch).

Row 2: Still using color A (black) in the 2nd chain from the hook *make one SC, in the next stitch make one DC*. *Repeat two more times. (You will have 6 stitches total) In the last dc after you YO and bring up the first loop then STOP and grab Color B (grey) and pull it up through the second loop.

NOTE: Now that you have changed colors you will want to carry the black along with you while you crochet the next 6 stitches so it is ready for you to pull up for the next block when you have to change back. Make sure when you get to the end of the 6 stitches that you lightly tug on the black yarn to make sure it is taunt under the grey yarn. If you pull too hard the work with gather and you don’t want that. You just want to make sure it isn’t bunched up underneath.

Still on Row 2: (With the grey, and carrying along the black) In the next stitch *make one SC, and in the next stitch make one DC*. *Repeat two more times. In the last DC after you YO and bring up the first loop then STOP and pull up color A (black) that you have been carrying along, through the second loop.

Repeat these steps until you get to the last stitch in the row. You should have a row of black, grey, black, grey, black and ending with grey. Each section of color should be 6 stitches. You will ALWAYS end row with a DC. If you are ending a row with a SC something isn’t correct. In the last DC of the row complete the stitch without pulling up a different color. Now ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Keeping with the grey make a SC in the first stitch (carrying along the black as you go), and in the next stitch do a DC*. *Repeat two more times. In the last DC after you YO and bring up the first loop then STOP and pull up color A (black) that you have been carrying along, through the second loop.

You will repeat these steps until you for rows 4-7. At that time you should have completed 6 squares that are 6 stitches across and 6 rows high alternating in black and grey. Fun, huh? I just love this look!

At the very end of Row 7 the only change you will make is instead of completing the last DC with the same color you will YO and bring up the fist loop then STOP and pull up color C (white) through the second loop. We will begin row 8 alternating a new set of colors to give it the plaid effect. Grey will always go on top of the black squares and the white will always go on top of the grey squares when a new section is started.

Row 8: You have begun with color C (white) and you will CH1 and then make a SC in the first stitch (at this time you are NOT carrying a color with since there is no black in this section). In the second stitch make a DC and repeat the SC, DC two more times. In the last DC after you YO and bring up the first loop then STOP and pull up color B (grey), through the second loop. Now carrying along the white and stitch across as you did for the previous rows.

ANOTHER NOTE: As you continue with the row you will think – but I can see the grey under the white as I carry it through. Don’t fret! It will blend in as you continue to work the piece. And don’t worry about all the ends. You can hid them in the border when you finish up.

So now you are on your way. You will continue Rows 9-13 to finish off the grey and white squares and at the end of row 13 in that final DC after you YO and bring up the first loop then STOP and pull up color A (black), through the second loop. Then off you go on another set of black and grey squares. I did a total of 25 sets of squares beginning and end with a row of grey and black.

I know it looks confusing when you read through this, but it is easier than it sounds. And once you get the hang of it you start to cruise through it. I recently purchased a table top tripod so I can make videos and demonstrating this process will be my first project. Unfortunately the tripod won’t be here until next week so I wanted to put out written instructions this week if you wanted to get started. If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact me for help.

+ Finishing the edges

So now you have your scarf and all you need to do is find a way to hide all those loose tails of yarn where you changed colors.

Starting with the scarf at the same corner you started this project start to work up the right side, across the top and down the left side with a simple single crochet all the way around. Please keep your stitches loose as you don’t want the scarf to pucker anywhere along the edge. There is no set amount of stitches. Just space them out on the sides evenly and loosely.

You don’t have to add fringe to your scarf but I thought it was a nice touch. I added a dozen fringe ties to the ends of each side of my scarf.

Using the black yarn I cut 120 pieces of yarn measuring 10″ long per piece. Separated into 24 groups of 5 pieces each. I then affixed them even along the bottom edges by folding the 5 pieces together in half, pulling up the center through a bottom stitch and then pulling the ends through the opening. Don’t pull too tightly so you don’t stretch out the stitches on the bottom row, but firmly enough to secure the knot. Then trim up the edges of the fringe so they are all even.

Ta-da! No Plaid About It – you are ready to show it off.

Please don’t forget to share your lovely finished piece!  I want to see what this beautiful scarf looks like in  other colors.  Please use the hashtag #autumnandembers so I can find your finished work.  And please feel free to reach out to me at autumnandembers@gmail.com if you have any questions.

This patterns and the photos of the garment are property of Autumn & Embers.  This pattern and design are subject to copyright, and are for personal, non-commercial use only.  You may not distribute or sell this pattern or any items created using the directions in this pattern without consent.

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